Half square triangles are arranged in a flower pattern in this hanging by Patricia Archibald.
- 20cm each of burgundy, red, red/orange
and medium green for the blocks
- 10cm each of red/pink, dark pink
and light teal for the blocks
- 60cm of dark green for the blocks,
border and binding
- 40cm of dark teal for the blocks
- 30cm of medium teal for the blocks
- 1m (40in) square of wadding
- 1m (40in) of backing fabric
Note: For some colours you only need a
few squares, so check the cutting instructions
as you may have a suitable piece in your
stash, but maybe an excuse for extra fabric
is good! You could buy a selection of fat
quarters for all the sections except the
borders and binding
38in (97cm) square
Where to Buy
The materials used to make this project are
available from all good quilt shops
Some pencil sketches of poppies inspired Patricia to make this hanging.
Having finished the sketches she then took a quarter section of one
sketch and simplified it to make the design more geometric. Four identical blocks, each
rotated through 90°, with borders added make up the wallhanging.
TIP! Divide your fabric into four piles,
one for each block; that way you will not accidentally use the wrong fabric in one block
Figure 1: Cutting the half square triangles
- The pattern is made entirely from half square triangles. To make these triangles
the squares are cut once on the diagonal to give two right angle triangles. See Figure 1.
- Cut the following:
- Twelve 3 7⁄8in squares from burgundy fabric to give 24 triangles
- Sixteen 3 7⁄8in squares from red to give 32 triangles
- Sixteen 3 7⁄8in squares from red/orange fabric to give 32 triangles
- Four 3 7⁄8in squares from red/pink to give eight triangles
- Six 3 7⁄8in squares from dark pink to give 12 triangles
- Six 3 7⁄8in squares from dark green to give 12 triangles
- Fourteen 3 7⁄8in squares from medium green to give 28 triangles
- Eight 3 7⁄8in squares from dark teal to give 16 triangles
- Eight 3 7⁄8 squares from medium teal to give 16 triangles
- Ten 3 7⁄8in squares from light teal to give 20 triangles
- Lay out the triangles for the block according to Figure 2. Stitch the triangles
together to make squares and then stitch the squares together to make five rows
as shown. Join the five rows to create one block. Try not to
pull on the seam as you stitch, as this will distort the bias edge
of the triangle. Repeat to make another three identical blocks.
The blocks should measure 15 1⁄2in square.
- Lay out the blocks to make a radiating design. The light teal corner
triangles form the centre of the design. Stitch the blocks together in pairs,
press well and then stitch the pairs together to make the central part of the
quilt (30 1⁄2in square). See Figure 3.
Figure 2: Piecing order and completed block
Figure 3: Four blocks arranged to create the flower centre
- From the medium teal border fabric cut four 1in strips across the width of the
fabric. Cut two of the strips to 30 1⁄2in long and sew to two opposite sides of
the central motif. Press towards the border. Cut the two remaining strips to 31
1⁄2in and sew to the remaining two opposite sides of the quilt. Press as before.
- From the dark teal border fabric cut four 2in wide strips across the width of the
fabric. Cut two of the strips to 31 1⁄2in and sew to opposite sides of the quilt.
Cut the two remaining strips to 34 1⁄2in and sew to the other two sides.
- From the dark green fabric cut four 2 1⁄2in wide strips across the width of the
fabric and sew to the quilt. Cut two of the strips to 34 1⁄2in and sew to opposite
sides of the quilt. Cut the two remaining strips to 38 1⁄2in and sew to the other
Figure 4: Quilt Layout with Borders
Figure 5: Quarter diagram quilting pattern.
- Enlarge and trace the quilting template shown and cut one from
card or template plastic. Using the quilting template, place the pointed end on the
centre point of the quilt and draw round it with your chosen marking tool
(check first to make sure you can remove the marks). Lift the template
and rotate it clockwise so that the top edge of the template lines up
with the bottom line of the drawn shape.
- Repeat 36 times to form a radiating floral shape. Check by eye as you
are working, especially when you have nearly finished tracing the design, to ensure that you are
not going to run out of space for the last shape. If that looks likely
to happen then adjust the last few curves to take up slightly more or less space.
See Figure 5.
- Make up the quilt sandwich by laying the backing WS uppermost on a flat surface
then smooth the wadding on top. Finally add the quilt top RS up. Tack or
pin to secure the layers for quilting, starting from the middle. Turn over and check there
are no pleats or tucks on the back.
- Hand quilt, following the lines you have drawn. Finish by outline or echo quilting
the floral shape in the four corners. To do this, sew a row following the previous
line but about 1⁄4in away. Keep repeating this until you run out of space in the
corners. Quilt in the ditch in the borders. This is a row of stitches just next
to the seam; so try to press the seams so that you sew on the side with no seam
allowances as this makes it easier to stitch through.
- Cut four 2in strips from the dark green fabric and press in half, WS together,
along the length. Measure across the width of the quilt and cut two strips to this
- Sew to opposite sides of the quilt by placing the raw edges of the binding level
with the raw edges of the quilt and stitching in place with a 1⁄4in seam allowance.
Flip the binding to the WS of the quilt and hand stitch in place.
- Measure across the middle of the quilt again, from the bound edge of one border
strip to the bound edge on the opposite side, add on 1in and cut the two remaining
strips to this length. Sew to the remaining two sides of the quilt as above, turning
in the excess fabric at the edges.
- Add a hanging sleeve to the back and hang in position.
First published in Popular Patchwork Volume 13 Number 5 - May 2005