Pocket Purse Parade


  • 30 cm main fabric for the bag
  • 6 1/2 inch (6-inch finished) square block
  • 30 cm lightweight fusible interfacing
  • 1 x 1 inch square of Velcro for fastener
  • Thread to match bag
  • General sewing supplies.

Finished Size

7 x 6in with a 52-inch strap

Skill Level


The finished bag has two internal pockets and measures approximately 7 x 6 with a 52-inch strap for across the body security. Just right for your wallet, keys and mobile phone!

Making the bag

Front Flap

Make a 6 1/2 inch (6-inch finished) square block or select a piece of feature fabric 6 1/2 inches square for the purse flap.


From the main fabric cut one strips 6 1/2 inches wide and two strips 2 inches wide across the 44 inch width of the fabric. From the interfacing cut one strip 6 x 50 inches. For economy this can be in two pieces


Making the strap. Join the two 2 inch strips together on the diagonal as you would when making binding. Trim the excess fabric and press the seam open. Cut the strap to the desired length (The strap is sized to 52-inches but you can adjust this to suit)

With wrong sides together fold the strip in half lengthwise and press. Open up and bring the side edges to the centre and refold along the crease line. (This will give you four thicknesses of fabric).

You may like to use a half-inch bias maker to make the task easier.

Stitch down the two long sides close to the edge.

Position each end of the strap to the right side of the 6 1/2 inch square flap so that the ends are in line with the top of the piece and are a generous 1/4 inch in from each side edge. Make sure that the strap is not twisted. Stitch across the top edge.

Tip: Another option is to replace the fabric straps with matching cord.

Using a 1/4 inch seam and with right sides together join the top edge of the square flap to the short edge of the long (6 1/2 x 44 inch) section so that the ends of the strap lie between the two layers. Press the seam open. The piece should now measure 61/2 x 50-inches.

Beginning at the flap end, fuse the 6-inch wide interfacing down the centre of the strip on the wrong side. If the interfacing is cut in two pieces, butt the pieces together where they join. Avoid overlapping the interfacing.

Working from the right side mark a point in the centre of the strip 15 inches from the design end and attach a 1 inch square of Velcro (soft section) to the strip at this point, stitching on all four edges. Attach the other piece of Velcro to the right side 3/4 inch from the opposite (plain) end.

Keeping the design to the left, turn the piece over to the wrong side and mark three lines across the piece as follows.

Lines A & C 13 inches from either end of the strip and B 12 1/2 inches from C. The distance between A and B will be approximately 11 1/2 inches. (This measurement can be less if necessary).

With wrong side up, fold at A and bring the fold to B. Pin to hold. Fold at line C and bring the fold to line B in line with the first fold. Secure with a pin.

Fold back on the centre fold B so that the right sides of the fabric are together and all edges match. (You may need to adjust one of the folds slightly if the edges don't quite match)

Pin the layers together. Stitch around the bag 1/4 inch from the edge leaving a gap on the side of the flap section as shown. Be careful not to stitch the strap – keep this tucked inside.

You can either stitch the purse as a rectangle with square corners or stitch across the corners.

Snip the corners then turn the bag to the right side through the gap in the stitching. Use a wooden satay stick or similar to create crisp corners. Don't worry if one pocket finishes up at the back of the bag; just turn it to the other side before you press..

Press the bag and top stitch around the flap to close the gap in the stitching.

Reproduced with kind permission from Brenda and Peter Dean. ©Quilters Pty. Ltd. 2013