• 8 1/2in x 6 1/2in outer fabric
  • 20in x 9 1/2in inner fabric for fold out pockets 
  • 11in x 6in inner fabric for inside pocket 
  • 6 1/2in x 4 1/2in pelmet interfacing
  • 6 1/2in x 9in fusible web (if pelmet interfacing not fusible)
  • 12in thin cord
  • One large bead
  • Air erasable marker or chalk
  • General sewing supplies.

Finished Size

Approx 4 1/4in high by 3in wide when closed

Skill Level


I designed this card wallet during our Doodle printing challenge, but was slightly restricted by the size of the piece of doodle printed fabric I'd made. So I was looking forward to making another with some revised measurements, and thought it fitted in well with Beth Studley's Mini Patchwork Projects Blog Hop theme.

The finished wallet has eight slots for cards and a wrap cord closure. You could use a button or any other fastening if you prefer, just adjust the steps with the cord and bead.


  1. If using non-fusible interfacing, cut the fusible web into two pieces 6 1/2in x 4 1/2in and fuse to either side of the interfacing, leaving the paper intact. 
  2. Take the 8 1/2in x 6 1/2in outer fabric and place wrong side up.
  3. Fuse the interfacing centrally to the wrong side of the outer fabric
  4. Remove the paper from the upper side of the interfacing/fusible web, press over each corner of the excess outer fabric. Take care when fusing these edges, as there will be exposed fusible web, and you don't want that on your iron!
  5. Once each corner is in place, wrap the top, bottom and side edges neatly as if you were wrapping a parcel and fuse into place. These edges will not be seen, so don't worry too much about how tidy it is. It will all be topstiched later.
  6. Put the outer cover to one side.


Fold out pockets

  1. Take the 20in x 9 1/2in inner fabric and press in half from the short ends to create a folded section 10in high x 9 1/2in wide. This fold will form the top edge of the fold out pocket section.
  2. Open the fabric out flat again. The fold out pockets are double sided, but we will work on one side at a time.
  3. Mark one line 3/4in down from the pressed fold. This is line A. Then mark a new line 3in below the first, a third line at 3in (line B) below that and a fourth at 3in below the third. You should have 1/4in seam allowance left at the bottom edge.
  4. Pinch a hill fold on line B and align this new fold with line A. Press well. There will be a valley fold at the line between A and B. This forms a 3in deep pocket for a card, with 3/4in free space at the top, and a line to indicate the seam allowance at the bottom. You need to make sure all the folds line up with the marked lines. You should now have a section that measures 4in from the original top fold to the bottom edge.
  5. Press this section again, pin and baste the three layers of folded fabric together to secure.
  6. Turn the fabric so that your basted section is at the top and repeat steps 3-5 for the other side of the top fold.
  7. With wrong sides together fold the opposite way along the original pressed top edge, and sew down the right hand side and bottom edge with a 1/4in seam allowance. The left hand edge will remain open.
  8. Clip the corner, turn through to the right side and press. The fold out pockets should now measure 3 3/4in high.
  9. Unpick your basting stitches on both sides.
  10. Mark three vertical lines at 2 1/2in intervals from the closed end, to mark out each card pocket slot. You'll be left with about 1in excesss at the open end. Ignore it for now, as this will form the hinge.
  11. Starting at the bottom edge, and sewing as close to the top or bottom edge as you dare, topstitch across to the first marked vertical. Continue topstiching up the first vertical line, then again close to the top edge, and back down the second vertical, until you reach the end of the fold out pockets.
  12. Put this section to one side



Inner pocket

  1. Take the 11in x 6in inner fabric. This section is single sided and will be used to attach the fold out pockets and cord to the outer cover. It is slightly taller than the fold out pockets to ensure it covers the hinge completely.
  2. Mark a line 1 1/2in down from the short edge (line A), a second line 3in below that for the valley fold, and a third 3in below (line B),  leaving 3 1/2in to the bottom edge, which includes a 1/2in seam allowance.
  3. As before press a hill fold on line B, and bring this folded edge up to line A. Press. The inner pocket will now measure 5in high by 6in wide.
  4. Turn under a 1/2in seam allowance at each edge, as if you were making a patch pocket
  5. Press well, and put on one side. This section should now measure 4in high x 5in wide.


  1. Place the outer cover right side down.
  2. Place one end of the cord centrally along the right hand side, with the end trailing free.
  3. Place the left hand open end of the fold out pockets over the cord, with the pockets to the right of the outer cover.
  4. Place the inner pocket centrally over the outer cover, trapping the cord and free end of the folded pockets. Line up the right hand edge of the inner pocket just to the left of the first vertical divider on the fold out pockets. There will be about an inch of the fold out pocket excess trapped between the outer cover and inner pocket to act as a hinge.
  5. When you are happy that everything is straight, pin well and fuse the inner pocket into place (this will only fuse the centre of the inner pocket to the cover, but it will help stabilise the wallet).
  6. Topstitch around the edge of the inner pocket, securing the inner pocket, cord and folded pocket edge.
  7. Topstitch around the edge of the outer cover.
  8. Fold the wallet in half, and topstitch twice along the fold to create a crease for the wallet spine.
  9. Thread a large bead onto the end of the cord. This is a wrap around fastening, you could use any other type if you prefer.