Knot Garden Quilt

Materials

  • 3.5m (3 7⁄8yds) cream print for background
  • 60cm (3⁄4yd) mid green
  • 50cm (5⁄8yd) light green
  • 50cm (5⁄8yd) dark green
  • 20cm (1⁄4yd) brown
  • One fat quarter terracotta
  • 50cm (5⁄8yd) binding fabric
  • 175cm (69in) square backing fabric
  • 175cm (69in) square wadding

Finished Size

Approx 165cm (65in) square

Skill Level

Experienced

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

  1. From the cream background fabric, cut the following pieces:
    • Eight 1 1⁄2in wide strips cut across the width of the fabric
    • Three 2 1⁄2in wide strips cut across the width of the fabric; join the strips on the diagonal to give one length, pressing the seams open to reduce bulk and trimming the ears.
    • Thirteen 4 1⁄2in wide strips cut across the width of the fabric; join the strips on the diagonal to give one length, pressing the seams open to reduce bulk and trimming the ears.
    • One hundred and eighty 1in squares
    • Twenty-seven 1 7⁄8in squares
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 2 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 3 1⁄2 x 9 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Six 2 1⁄2 x 13 1⁄2in strips
    • Nine template B
    • Nine reverse template B
  2. From the mid green fabric, cut the following pieces:
    • Fourteen 1 1⁄2in squares
    • Twenty-seven 1 7⁄8in squares
    • Twenty-two 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Nine 1 1⁄2 x 10 1⁄2in strips
    • Four 1 1⁄2 x 11 1⁄2in strips
    • Five 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in strips
  3. From the light green fabric, cut the following pieces:
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2in squares
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Eighteen 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in rectangles
  4. From the dark green fabric, cut forty-five 3 1⁄2in squares.
  5. From the brown fabric, cut the following pieces:
    • Nine 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in rectangles
    • Four 1 1⁄2in wide strips cut across the width of the fabric
  6. From the terracotta fabric, cut nine template A.
  7. From the binding fabric, cut eight 2 1⁄4in wide strips; join the strips on the diagonal to give one length, pressing the seams open to reduce bulk and trimming the ears.

SNOWBALL UNITS

  1. Take the 1in cream squares and on the wrong side of each one, mark a diagonal line from corner to corner.
  2. Take a 3 1⁄2in dark green square, place it right side up and on each corner, right sides together, place a cream background square. The diagonal lines run from outer edge to outer edge of the dark green square. See Figure 1.
  3. Stitch on the marked lines and then trim 1⁄4in beyond the seams; flip the cream triangles open and press. See Figure 1.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to make a total of forty-five snowball units.

Figure 1: Snowball unit

BAY TREE UNITS

Figure 2: Bay Tree Pot

  1. Take a template A piece and join a template B piece to the right-hand side and a reverse template B piece to the left. Open out and press. See Figure 2.
  2. To each side of a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in brown rectangle, on the long edges, stitch a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in cream rectangle. Join a snowball unit to one 3 1⁄2in edge and a bay tree pot to the other end.
  3. Join a 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in cream rectangle to the top and bottom of the previous unit.
  4. To each side of the previous unit join a 3 1⁄2 x 9 1⁄2in cream rectangle. See Figure 3.
  5. Repeat Steps 1–4 to make a total of nine bay tree units.

Figure 3: Bay Tree Unit

BLOCK A UNITS

Figure 4: Block A

  1. 1 Take twelve 1 7⁄8in cream squares and on the wrong side of each one, mark a diagonal line from corner to corner. Right sides together and matching up the raw edges, place these squares on top of 1 7⁄8in mid green squares. Stitch 1⁄4in either side of the marked line. Cut through both layers on the diagonal line. Open the units out, press and then trim the ears. You will now have twenty-four identical half-square triangles.
  2. Join a half-square triangle to the right-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in light green rectangle, with the mid green triangle next to the light green. Join a 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in mid green rectangle to the lower edge. Keeping the half-square triangle to the right, join a 2 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in cream rectangle to the right 2 1⁄2in end of the unit. See Figure 4.
  3. Join a half-square triangle to the left-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in mid green rectangle, with the mid green triangle next to the mid green. With the half-square triangle to the left, join a 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in light green rectangle to the upper edge. Join this to the previous unit, with the half-square triangle end of the unit next to the cream rectangle. See Figure 4.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to make a second strip. Join one strip to the top of the bay tree unit and one to the bottom. See Figure 4.
  5. To each end of a 1 1⁄2 x 10 1⁄2in mid green strip join a 1 1⁄2in light green square. To the left-hand end join a 1 1⁄2in mid green square. To the left-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in light green strip join a half-square triangle, with the mid green triangle next to the light green. With the light green strip on the left, join the two strips on one long edge, then join to the left-hand side of the bay tree unit with the light green strip on the outer edge. See Figure 4.
  6. To the right-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 11 1⁄2in mid green strip join a half-square triangle, with the mid green triangle next to the mid green. Join a 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in light green strip to the left-hand edge of the previous strip. To the left-hand edge join a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in mid green rectangle, then join to the right-hand side of the bay tree unit with the light green strip on the inner edge. See Figure 4.
  7. Repeat Steps 2–6 to make a total of four block A.

BLOCK B UNITS

Figure 5: Block B

  1. Take fifteen 1 7⁄8in cream squares and on the wrong side of each one, mark a diagonal line from corner to corner. Right sides together and matching up the raw edges, place these squares on top of 1 7⁄8in mid green squares. Stitch 1⁄4in either side of the marked line. Cut through both layers on the diagonal line. Open the units out, press and then trim the ears. You will now have thirty identical half-square triangles.
  2. Join a half-square triangle to the right-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in mid green rectangle, with the mid green triangle next to the mid green. Join a 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in light green rectangle to the upper edge. Keeping the half-square triangle to the right, join a 2 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in cream rectangle to the right 2 1⁄2in end of the unit. See Figure 5.
  3. Join a half-square triangle to the left-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 2 1⁄2in light green rectangle, with the mid green triangle next to the light green. Join a 1 1⁄2 x 3 1⁄2in mid green rectangle to the lower edge. Join this to the previous unit, with the half-square triangle end of the unit next to the cream rectangle. See Figure 5.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to make a second strip. Join one strip to each side of the bay tree unit; the strips face the same way on each side. See Figure 5.
  5. To each end of a 1 1⁄2 x 10 1⁄2in mid green strip join a 1 1⁄2in light green square. To the right-hand end join a 1 1⁄2in mid green square. To the right-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in light green strip join a half-square triangle, with the mid green triangle next to the light green. With the light green strip on the left, join the two strips on one long edge, then join to the top of the bay tree unit with the light green strip on the outer edge. See Figure 5.
  6. To the left-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 11 1⁄2in mid green strip join a half-square triangle, with the mid green triangle next to the mid green. To the right-hand end of a 1 1⁄2 x 12 1⁄2in light green strip join a 1 1⁄2in mid green square. With the light green strip on the left, join the two strips on one long edge, then join to the bottom of the bay tree unit with the light green strip on the inner edge. See Figure 5.
  7. Repeat Steps 2–6 to make a total of five block B.

QUILT TOP

Fig 6 Quilt layout

  1. Assemble the blocks and the 2 1⁄2 x 13 1⁄2in cream strips into three rows of three blocks, alternating blocks A and B. Take the long 2 1⁄2in wide cream strip and trim to give two 2 1⁄2 x 43 1⁄2in strips. Join the rows of blocks to these strips. See Figure 6.
  2. Trim the long 4 1⁄2in wide cream strip to give the following lengths:
    • Two 4 1⁄2 x 4 31⁄2in strips
    • Two 4 1⁄2 x 51 1⁄2in strips
    • Two 4 1⁄2 x 57 1⁄2in strips
    • Two 4 1⁄2 x 65 1⁄2in strips
  3. Join a 4 1⁄2 x 43 1⁄2in cream strip to the top and bottom of the quilt centre. Join a 4 1⁄2 x 51 1⁄2in cream strip to either side.
  4. Take two 1 1⁄2in wide cream strips and join to either side of a 1 1⁄2in wide brown strip. Repeat to make a total of four strip-pieced strips. Cross-cut the strips to give thirty-six 3 1⁄2in wide segments.
  5. Alternating the units, make four strips of nine strip-pieced segments and eight snowball units. To two of the strips join a snowball unit to either end. Join the shorter strips to the top and bottom of the quilt centre and the longer strips to either side.
  6. Join a 4 1⁄2 x 57 1⁄2in cream strip to the top and bottom of the quilt centre. Join a 4 1⁄2 x 65 1⁄2in cream strip to either side.

QUILTING AND FINISHING

  1. Press your quilt top and backing. Place the backing fabric wrong side up on a clean flat surface, followed by the wadding and then the quilt top, centrally and right side up; the backing and wadding are slightly larger than the quilt top. Pin or tack in place.
  2. Quilt as desired. Ruth has stitched a background crosshatch pattern in the quilt centre. In the plain borders she has quilted circles and lines to echo the pieced border and bring the whole design together.
  3. To bind the quilt, trim the excess backing and wadding level with the quilt top edges. Press the 2 1⁄4in wide binding strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Match the raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of the quilt and sew in place, folding a mitre at each corner. Before completing your stitching, neaten the short raw end of the starting piece and insert the ending piece into it.
  4. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and neatly slipstitch in place by hand. Add a label to your quilt if you wish.

First published in Popular Patchwork March 2011